Walk into any hardware store and you’ll find dozens of different locks. Some look nearly identical but function completely differently. Others promise features you might not even need. If you’re trying to figure out which types of front door locks for homes make sense for your situation, you’re not alone.
This guide breaks down what you need to know about residential door locks. No fluff, just the facts about how each type works and where it fits best in your home.
What Keeps Intruders Out
Your front door lock needs to do more than just turn. In Florida’s salty coastal air, you’re dealing with humidity that can corrode cheap hardware in a year or two. Stainless steel and solid brass hold up better than plated finishes.
Single vs. Double-Cylinder Deadbolts
Single-cylinder deadbolts have a key on the outside and a thumb turn inside. Most homes use these because you can get out fast in an emergency. Double-cylinder deadbolts need a key on both sides, which stops someone from breaking a window and reaching in to unlock the door. The trade-off? You need to keep a key near the door for emergencies, which somewhat defeats the purpose.
If you’re debating deadbolt vs knob lock for exterior door security, there’s really no contest. Deadbolts win every time because the bolt slides directly into your door frame. Knob locks can be forced open with enough pressure.
Handlesets That Look Good and Stay Locked
These pair a handle with a built-in deadbolt. You get one lock that does two jobs. The handle lets you open and close the door normally, while the deadbolt locks things down at night. They cost more than buying separate pieces, but everything matches and you only drill one set of holes in your door.
Smart Locks and Keypads
Smart locks are everywhere in newer neighborhoods around Delray Beach and Wellington. They run on batteries and connect to your phone via Bluetooth or WiFi. Brands like Schlage, Kwikset, and Yale let you lock or unlock from anywhere, create temporary codes for guests, and see who came and went.
Keypad locks give you the no-key convenience without the app. You punch in a code and you’re in. Good for kids who lose keys or vacation rentals where you need to change access between guests.
| Lock Type | Best For | Key Advantage |
| Single-Cylinder Deadbolt | Main exterior doors | Fast exit during emergencies |
| Double-Cylinder Deadbolt | Doors with nearby windows | Can’t be unlocked by breaking glass |
| Handleset | Front entrances | Style plus security in one unit |
| Smart Lock | Tech-friendly homes | Remote access and monitoring |
| Keypad | Families and rentals | No keys to lose or copy |
Interior Locks Don’t Need to Stop Burglars
Inside your home, you’re not worried about break-ins. You just want to keep the bathroom door shut or give teenagers some privacy in their bedrooms.
Knob Locks and Lever Handles
Standard knob locks have a push-button or twist tab on the inside. They lock from within and usually have a small hole on the outside that you can poke with a paperclip to unlock in emergencies. Lever handles work the same way but you push down instead of turning. If anyone in your home has arthritis or weak grip strength, levers make life easier.
Pocket Door and Sliding Door Hardware
These doors need flush-mount locks that sit inside the door panel. They’re not as secure as regular locks, but for a closet or interior room, they do the job.
The Grade System and What Those Numbers Mean
The ANSI/BHMA rating system ranks locks from Grade 1 down to Grade 3. Here’s what the grades mean for your home.
| Grade | Use Case | What You Get |
| Grade 1 | Commercial buildings, high-security homes | Most secure types of door locks available and handles heavy use |
| Grade 2 | Residential exterior doors | Strong security for typical home use |
| Grade 3 | Interior doors, low-traffic areas | Basic privacy locks |
For your front door, stick with Grade 1 or Grade 2. Grade 3 is fine for bedrooms and bathrooms. When you’re choosing between grades, a residential locksmith can explain which lock grade makes sense for different doors in your home.
A Few More Lock Types Worth Knowing About
Mortise Locks
These require cutting a pocket into the edge of your door to fit the lock body. You’ll find them in older homes and some high-end new construction. They’re sturdy because the entire mechanism sits inside the door instead of just attaching to the surface.
Chain Locks and Barrel Bolts
You install these on the inside of your door as a backup to your main lock. They let you crack the door open to see who’s there without fully opening it. Neither one stops a determined intruder, but they add a layer of control.
Why Florida’s Weather Matters for Your Lock Choice
Salt air eats through cheap locks faster than you’d think. Look for stainless steel or solid brass parts, not just brass-plated hardware. These materials hold up better against rust and corrosion. Even with quality locks, coastal humidity can cause problems over time, so it helps to rekey and service your locks regularly to keep everything working smoothly.
How to Match the Right Lock to Each Door
Your front door needs the strongest lock you can afford, typically a Grade 1 or 2 deadbolt. Back doors and side doors get the same treatment. Interior doors just need privacy locks. If you’ve got a vacation home, smart locks let you monitor access even from another state.
Installation matters more than you might think. A Grade 1 lock installed crooked or in a poorly aligned door frame won’t perform any better than a cheaper lock. For businesses or properties that need heavier-duty options, commercial door lock installation requires specific hardware that’s built to handle higher traffic and stricter security requirements.