You probably don’t spend much time thinking about your front door lock. You turn the key, it clicks, and you go about your day. But not all locks protect your home the same way. There’s actually a grading system that measures how well a lock can stand up to forced entry and daily use.
The American National Standards Institute (ANSI) created this system with the Builders Hardware Manufacturers Association (BHMA) to test lock performance. They put locks through cycles of use, hammer strikes, and stress tests to see which ones hold up. The testing separates locks into three grades, and understanding these differences helps you figure out if your home has real protection or just the basics.
Breaking Down the Lock Grade System
The grading system is straightforward. Grade 1 is the toughest, Grade 2 works well for most homes, and Grade 3 is basic hardware. Each grade has to pass different tests that simulate years of real-world use.
Think of it this way: the tests measure how many times you can lock and unlock before something breaks, and how much force the lock can take from someone trying to kick in your door. Higher grades mean more cycles and more resistance to force. The ANSI standards lay out specific requirements for each level.
| Grade | Cycle Test | Strike Test | Common Use |
| Grade 1 | 1,000,000 cycles | 10 strikes at 75 lbs | Commercial buildings, high-security homes |
| Grade 2 | 400,000 cycles | 5 strikes at 75 lbs | Most residential properties |
| Grade 3 | 200,000 cycles | 2 strikes at 75 lbs | Interior doors, low-security areas |
Why Grade 1 Locks Are the Strongest
Grade 1 locks are tested to survive one million uses. That means you could lock and unlock your door every day for decades without wearing it out. They also handle ten hammer strikes at 75 pounds, which simulates someone really trying to break through.
Where Grade 1 Locks Are Used
These locks show up in banks, office buildings, and other places that need serious security. Some homeowners choose them too, especially in areas with higher break-in rates.
The price tag runs from $100 to $300 or more per lock. Brands like Medeco, Mul-T-Lock, and Schlage’s B60 series make Grade 1 deadbolts that work for homes.
Is Grade 1 Right for Your Front Door?
Grade 1 makes sense if you live somewhere with property crime concerns or keep valuable items at home. Some insurance companies give discounts for installing high-security locks, which helps with the cost.
If you’re deciding on the best option for your front door in a tougher neighborhood, Grade 1 provides the highest level of protection. Rental properties also benefit because these locks handle heavy use without breaking down.
Why Grade 2 Works for Most Households
Grade 2 locks pass 400,000 cycle tests and survive five hammer strikes. For typical residential use, this provides solid security without commercial pricing.
Most building codes require less than what Grade 2 offers, so you’re getting protection above minimum standards.
When It Makes Sense
If you’re weighing your options between Grade 1 and Grade 2 deadbolts, Grade 2 usually fits suburban homes just fine. You’ll spend between $50 and $150, which is reasonable for quality hardware.
Popular Grade 2 Models
The Schlage B60N deadbolt is popular for its brass construction and pick-resistant design. Kwikset’s SmartKey line lets you rekey the lock yourself without calling anyone. Yale makes both traditional and electronic Grade 2 options.
These prove you don’t need to spend a fortune for decent security.
What You’re Getting with Grade 3
Grade 3 locks only need to pass 200,000 cycles and two hammer strikes. Deadbolts drop to 100,000 cycles. These are the entry-level option, and security experts don’t recommend them for exterior doors.
They’re easier to bypass through picking, bumping, or force.
Where Grade 3 Locks Belong
These locks cost between $15 and $50. They work fine for bedroom or bathroom doors where security isn’t the main concern. Using them on entry doors is asking for trouble.
Why Your New Home Probably Has Grade 3
Most new construction homes come with Grade 3 hardware because builders want to meet minimum requirements at the lowest cost.
If your home was built in the last ten years, check your locks. There’s a good chance you have Grade 3 hardware on your front and back doors. The money you save buying cheap locks doesn’t compare to what you’d lose in a break-in.
Interior doors are fine, but exterior doors need better protection.
How to Check Your Lock Grade
Look at your lock for stamped markings or labels. Some manufacturers print the grade on the lock face or cylinder. Check the edge of your door where the deadbolt comes out for any numbers or certification marks.
If you kept the packaging, the grade should be printed on the box. Most companies list ANSI certification because it’s a selling point. You can also search the manufacturer’s website using your model number, which is usually on the inside part of the lock.
Can’t Find the Grade Information?
A locksmith can identify your lock grade in minutes. They look at these all the time and know what to check. This kind of assessment shows you where your home might be vulnerable. If you need help figuring out what you have, a residential locksmith can evaluate your current setup and explain your options.
Should You Upgrade Your Current Locks?
Start by finding out what grade locks you have now. If Grade 3 hardware protects your entry doors, upgrading is worth considering. The cost of better locks is small compared to replacing stolen items or fixing damage from a break-in.
Think about your neighborhood, what you keep at home, and how comfortable you feel with your current setup. Some people want maximum security. Others feel fine with mid-grade protection. There’s no single right answer, but knowing the facts beats guessing.
What You’ll Pay to Upgrade Locks
Quality locks last longer and need less maintenance. Grade 1 and Grade 2 locks often come with lifetime warranties, so you won’t pay for replacements. Some insurance companies reduce premiums for certified high-security locks. If you sell your home, upgraded security can appeal to buyers who care about safety.
If you do decide to upgrade, the process of replacing your existing locks is straightforward. Most deadbolts use standard dimensions, so switching from Grade 3 to Grade 2 or Grade 1 hardware doesn’t require modifying your door.
Understanding Lock Grades Helps You Make Better Choices
Now you know what the lock grading system means and what each level offers. The grade determines how much force your lock can take and how long it’ll last. A Grade 1 lock costs more than Grade 3, but the protection level isn’t even close.
Most people don’t think about lock quality until something happens. Checking what grade you have takes five minutes and tells you if your home has real security or just the appearance of it. If you find Grade 3 locks on your exterior doors, you’ll know exactly why an upgrade matters.
For homes that need more than basic protection, looking into high-security lock options makes sense. The investment in better hardware pays off through durability, insurance savings, and actual protection. Don’t wait for a break-in to find out your locks weren’t good enough.